If the LGS isn't willing to simply remove a screw and drop the bbl'd action out of the wood to take a look for a well known & expensive to make it all good again problem that's been around for 50yrs,then I suspect the price is a very good one for a very good reason. You get a good look at the mess they are inside from the wood on an O/U in this instance,and what his opinion of what to do with the wood. Under the 'Videos' scroll down to 'Restoration of a salt wood gun'. They do near exclusive Browning repair and restoration. Others do come out but covered with live rust. Some of them just snap off as they are salt eaten down to near nothing in dia. Pulling the butt plate screws is another way to usually see the problem. It draws more moisture from the air like salt on your car and rust continues. One might delay the effects for a while, but you can be sure the plain old rock salt/ road salt that they used to cure the wood and is now still imbedded into the wood as it drove the woods natural moisture from it to cure,it's still there. Many will be glass bedded in an attempt to prevent the salt wood from touching the metal from that point forward.ĪFAIK, there isn't any sealer/coating that'll help. All depends on the person doing the work and how much time and effort they want to put in.Īlso the stock, if the orig salt wood, will usually be heavily coated in the inletting with one of many magic sealers that some believe will prevent the rusting from happening again. Or pitting still in hard to reach areas, ect. If anything any blue worn edges are now back to 'new'.Ī lot of work and this usually leaves evidence behind of itself in the way of some of the deeper pits still being there. The outward uneffected surfaces are not touched,they just remain pristine if so and go thru the hot salt blue and come out looking the same. Takes quite a bit of polishing either by hand or power and then the bbl d action and all the effected small parts involved in the repolish are reblued. or it may have been 'saved' from prior damage by refinishing the rusted and pitted under the wood metal. The metal be either rusted/ pitted from the salt wood contact and still have live rust working it's way into it. Simply taking the bbl'd action out of the wood and examining it will tell you then and there if it is or not. The salt wood was all high(er) grade claro walnut. The possibility of a 'salt wood' stock would concern me however. If I ever want to refinish it it will be a big project.ĭecent price IMO for the condition and the fact that it's a Grade II. The only problem I see is the finish is the high gloss browning standard. Besides mine will easily last this lifetime. Again, Ohio guns and not worth my time, even if cheap enough. From time to time they appear at the OGCA shows. Too much hassle to do it legally, so I just left for someone else. One I should have bought was at a flea market in Ohio. I've seen a few up for sale used over the years. Even a note that says they go with the T2 if I'm not around to include them. Somewhere in my junk I have an extra magazine and the plastic pieces. One was a bottom blank that covers the magazine hole in the bottom of the action and the loading or lift mechanism that serves to allow the single loading. The other things they came with was a peep sight that uses the "tip off mounts" the scopes are mounted two, and the loading pieces. They're hard to find, kind of like hens teeth. You've touched upon the one weakness, that being the one magazine.
I bought a T2 back in 1966 and its been a great gun all these years.
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